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Mountaineering Expedition
Rules & Regulation:
Climbing Permit Fees (Royalties) and Expedition Team
sizes:
1. The climbers participating in mountaineering
expedition has to cross the age of 16 years.
2. The existing season based concept of mountaineering
and opened whole year for the same purpose. Accordingly,
mountaineering time has been determined on the basis of
the height of the mountain and area concept.
3. More than
one team is permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest)
in one season by separate (non-conventional) routes
each.
4. A royalty of U$ 50,000 is fixed for Sagarmatha (Mt.
Everest) for a team consisting of seven members. The
team may include five further members at a cost of US$
10,000 per additional member. The royalty includes the
trekking fee for all team members. The team members will
also be granted a three-month visa.
5. There is an additional US$ 20,000 charge for teams
proposing to climb Mt. Everest by the normal southeast
ridge route.
6. Any team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest must
pay US$ 10,000 if it intends to change its originally
agreed ascent route. A charge of US$ 20,000 applies if
it intends to change the ascent route to the normal
southeast ridge route.
7. In all other regions, including Khumbu, an expedition
team can have up to seven members for the additional
royalty.
Royalty for the Mountaineering expedition
(A) For the Mount Everest (Sagarmatha)
(1) The royalty for the mountaineering expedition
team not exceeding seven in number from the route other
than the general route (Southeast route) will be US$
50,000.
(2) The royalty for the mountaineering expedition
from general route (Southeast route) for the
mountaineering expedition team will be as follows: -
Member of the mountaineering expedition team Royalty (U.
S. Dollars):
|
|
25,000
|
|
|
40,000 |
|
|
48,000 |
|
|
56,000 |
|
Five
Members
|
60,000 |
|
Six
Members
|
66,000 |
|
Seven
Members
|
70,000 |
| Additional
Member (up to 12 person) |
10,000
Per Person |
(3) Other not more than five
members may be added in the mountaineering expedition
team beyond the number as it is mentioned in clause (1)
and (2).
(B) For the other Mountains: -
(1) The royalty for the other mountain shall be as
follows: -
|
Mountaineering
Royalty (USD $)
|
|
Name of
the Mountains
|
For
expedition including up to seven members |
For
each additional member exceeding seven members
(up to a total of twelve) |
|
|
10,000 |
1500 |
|
|
4,000 |
500 |
|
Peaks
of 7001 to 7500m
|
3,000 |
400 |
|
Peaks
of 6501 to 7000m
|
2,000 |
300 |
|
Peaks
of less than 6501m
|
1,000 |
200 |
(2) Other not more than five
members may be added in the mountaineering expedition
team beside as prescribed in clause (1).
Note: If there is any change in the
royalty amount before receiving the briefing from the
Ministry even after one has already paid the royalty
under this Regulation, the mountaineering expedition
team shall pay the changed amount of the royalty.
The leader of the expedition team is required to pay the
full amount of the climbing permit within two months of
the date of climbing. In cases of failure to pay within
this time period permission may be annulled.
Environmental Deposit:
Teams attempting peaks within the Khumbu Region must
deposit US$ 4,000 for Everest expeditions, US$ 3,000 for
other 8,000m peaks and US$ 2,000 for peaks less than
8,000m. This deposit is refundable upon the team
removing all their garbage on completion of the
expedition.
Liaison Officers:
The primary function of a liaison officer is to
ensure that the mountaineering regulations and laws of
Nepal are adhered to. The expedition team must cover all
costs of the liaison officer. This includes wages,
equipment allowance, transport, meals and suitable
accommodation for the entire expedition period. The
liaison officer must also be insured against accidents.
Filming Permits:
Expedition teams wishing to make documentary films of
their climb must obtain government permission and pay an
associated permit fee.
Radio and Telephone Permits:
Operating licenses must be obtained and paid for to use
two-way radio equipment and telephones.
Seasons:
There are four main mountaineering seasons - spring
(March to May), summer (June to August), autumn
(September to November) and winter (December to
February).
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CLIMBING 'TREKKING PEAKS': - Rules &
Regulation
Climbing Rules:
In exercise of the powers conferred by His
Majesty's Government, Nepal Mountaineering Association
has made the following rules to be observed for the
climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya. These rules
will come into force at once.
Definition:
Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the
same as those for His Majesty's Government
Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first
Amendment 1984.
Permission:
Any person or mountaineering team desirous of
climbing the peak listed in Appendix '1' must receive
permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association.
Application to climb the peak must be made in the form
as prescribed in Appendix '2'. Permission to climb the
peaks will be granted for a period of one month only.
Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another
period of two weeks. The period of permission granted
relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp.
The trek to and from the base camp is not included.
Application for climbing permit may be made at any time
by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be
granted on a first come first serve basis. Each climbing
party will be given a permit as prescribed in Appendix
'3'. The right to give permission to another party for
climbing the same peak during the same period is
reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal
Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration
Office of His Majesty's Government for obtaining
trekking permit of the area to the team members.
Refund:
In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or
the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some
other reasons, the feels already paid will not be
refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing
permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar / Guide, who
must be registered with NMA.
Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide:
a) To assist the climbing party with
recruitment of porters and other staff, control of
porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any
problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
b) To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case
the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in
the mountain.
c) To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of
their permit.
d) To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the
specified route.
e) To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
f) To report to NMA any infringement of the
climbing rules.
g) To report any serious incidents to the nearest police
post. The Sirdar Guide shall be employed from the day
the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is
finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the
following facilities:
1. Food and tent accommodation:
Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if
required to go above the base camp.
2. Insurance:
All employees going above the base camp must be insured
for personal accident to the value of Rupees. 200,000.
3. Nomination of representative in Kathmandu:
Each party granted climbing permit would nominate
representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between
NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an
individual or an organization registered with NMA. The
nominated representative will be responsible for making
necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of
accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.
4. Submission of report:
On the conclusion of the climb and on return to
Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to NMA in the
form. Power to cancel the permit: - NMA may cancel or
withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without
showing any particular reason. Non-compliance of the
regulation: Where any trekking party acts in
contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts
of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the
customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may
recommend to His Majesty Government to take necessary
measures in accordance with Article 37 of Mountaineering
Regulations 1979.
5. Protection of Environment:
Base Camp and other camps will be left
perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No
foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall
be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material
must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.
6. Revision of the Regulations:
Any article of this regulation may be revised or
amended by NMA with prior permission of Nepal
Government.
Note: All rates effective from 18 September 2002.
Group "A" NMA Peaks
Fee Structure for Group 'A' NMA
Peaks:
Royalty for up to seven members: USD 500.00
Royalty for each additional member up to 12 persons: USD
100.00.
Group "B" NMA Peaks
| S.N. |
Name
of the Peaks |
Height |
Region
|
Permit
Fee (USD $)
|
| 1. |
Hiunchuli
Peak |
6441m |
Annapurna
Himal, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 2. |
Singu
Chuli (fluted Peak) |
6501m |
Annapurna
Himal, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 3. |
Mera
Peak |
6654m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 4. |
Kusum
Kangru Peak |
6367m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 5. |
Kwangde
Ri Peak |
6011m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 6. |
Chulu
West Peak |
6419m |
Manang
District, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 7. |
Chulu
East Peak |
6584m |
Manang
District, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 8. |
Imja
Tse (Island Peak) |
6169m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 9. |
Pachhermo
Peak |
6187m |
Rolwaling
Himal, Janakpur |
350.00 |
| 10. |
Lobuche
East Peak |
6119m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 11. |
Ramdung
"Go" Peak |
5925m |
Rolwaling
Himal, Janakpur |
350.00 |
| 12. |
Pisang
Peak |
6091m |
Manang
District, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 13. |
Tharpu
Chuli (Tent Peak) |
5663m |
Annapurna
Himal, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 14. |
Khongma
Tse (Mehra Peak) |
5849m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha |
350.00 |
| 15. |
Ganja
La Chuli (Naya Kanga) |
5844m |
Langtang
Himal, Bagmati |
350.00 |
| 16. |
Pokhalde
Peak |
5806m |
Khumbu
Himal, Sagarmatha
|
350.00
|
| 17. |
Mardi
Himal |
5587m |
Annapurna
Himal, Gandaki |
350.00 |
| 18. |
Paldor
Peak |
5896m |
Langtang
Himal, Bagmati |
350.00 |
Fee Structure for Group 'B'
NMA Peaks:
Royalty for 1-4 members: USD 350.00
Royalty for 5-8 members: USD 350.00 + USD 40.00 per
person
Royalty for 9-12 members: USD 510.00 + USD 25.00 per
person
Note: Maximum number of members in one
team is 12.
Garbage Deposit for all 33 NMA Peaks:
A Garbage Deposit fee of USD 250.00 payable to NMA is
required to obtain permits for all 33 NMA peaks. Refunds
on the Garbage Deposit shall be as per NMA provisions.
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Over 8000 meters Mountains in the World:
| S.N. |
Mountain |
Height |
First
to Summit |
Date |
Nationality |
Range
/ Location |
| 1. |
Mt.
Everest |
8848m |
Sir
Edmund Hilary & Tenzing Norgay Sherpa |
May
29, 1953 |
New
Zealander & Nepalese |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 2. |
Mt.
K2 (Godwinausten) |
8611m |
Achille
Compagnoni
Lino Lacedelli |
July
31, 1954 |
Italian |
Karakoram
/ Pakistan |
| 3. |
Mt.
Kanchanjungha |
8586m |
George
Band
Joe Brown
Norman Hardie |
May
25, 1955 |
British |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 4. |
Mt.
Lhotse |
8516m |
Fritz
Luchsinger
Emest Reiss |
May
18, 1956 |
Swiss |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 5. |
Mt.
Makalu |
8463m |
Jean
Couzy
Lionel Terray
Jean Franco
Guido Magnone
Jean Bouvier
Serge Coupe
Pierre Leroux
Andre Vialatte
Gyalgen Norbu
|
May
15, 1955 |
French |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 6. |
Mt.
Cho Oyu |
8201m |
Herbert
Tichy
Sepp Jochler
Pasang Dawa Lama |
October
19, 1954 |
Austrian |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 7. |
Mt.
Dhaulagiri |
8167m |
Kurt
Dimberger
Peter Diener
Emest Forrer
Albine Scelbert
Michel Vaucher
Hugo Webber
Nawang Dorge
Nayan Dorge
|
May
13, 1960 |
Swiss |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 8. |
Mt.
Manaslu |
8163m |
Toshio
Imanishi |
May
9, 1956 |
Japanese |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 9. |
Nanga
Parvat |
8125m |
Hermann
Bhul
Gyalgen Norbu |
July
3, 1953 |
Austrian |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 10. |
Mt.
Annapurna I |
8091m |
Maurice
Herzog |
June
3, 1950 |
French |
Himalayas
/ Nepal |
| 11. |
Gasherbrum
I |
8068m |
Louis
Lechenal
Andrew Kauffmann |
July
4, 1958 |
American |
Karakoram
/ Pakistan |
| 12. |
Broad
Peak |
8047m |
Peter
Schoening
Kurt Diemberger
Hermann Bhul
Markus Schmock |
June
9, 1957 |
Austrian |
Karakoram
/ Pakistan |
| 13. |
Gasherbrum
II |
8035m |
GaFritz
Wintersteller
Sepp Larch |
July
7, 1956 |
Austrian |
Karakoram
/ Pakistan |
| 14. |
Mt.
Shishapangma |
8013m |
Fritz
Morvel
Hans Willenpart
10 Climbers from Tibet (China)
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